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AWACS Tank Guides: FV215b (183)

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EdAWACSdenyY #1 Posted 14 September 2015 - 11:59 PM

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AWACS Tank Guides

FV215b (183): The Quirky, Scary RNG Damage Machine

 

What happens when you let an FV215b 183 aim his shot and fire HESH at you

 

Hello everyone! EdAWACSdenyY here! and today I'm going to be talking to you about the FV215b (183). This is the Tier 10 British Tank Destroyer known to many by its infamous nickname: "Death Star" Let's put this British Alpha Monster under the scope shall we laddies?

 

 

Background History: 

 

Only a wooden mock-up was ever built of the real FV215b which is known as the FV215b (183) in World of Tanks. Here's an image of what the wooden mock-up of the FV215b looked like 

 

 

The tank which borne the British designation of FV215b.

 

During the Cold War era, the British Army alarmed by the advanced features of Soviet tanks, devised a weapon which could on paper, allow the British to destroy any present or future Soviet tank at medium to long range. Royal Ordnance Factories with these specifications in mind, went to work on creating such a weapon. They soon unveiled their proposal with the biggest tank gun ever in the form of the Royal Ordnance 183 mm L4 anti-tank cannon. This gun was designed to only fire High-Explosive (HE) and High Explosive Squash Head (HESH) ammunition and could on paper, destroy any present and future Soviet tank from medium to long range. The gun also featured automated-loading in the early testing stages.

 

During this time the British Army were experimenting on way to increase the fire power of their current tanks. The British Centurion Universal Tank  which impressed the British Army so much was experimented on in an attempt to mate its chassis with the 120 mm L1A1 rifled cannon in a modified turret which created the FV4004 Conway as shown below. 

 

FV4004 Conway

 

But when the FV214 Conqueror was up-gunned with the same 120 mm gun, the Conway became redundant. However, the British continued to experiment with the Centurion chassis and decided to mount the huge 183 mm L4 onto the Centurion chassis to create the FV4005 Stage 1 which featured the gun mounted with limited traverse in a non-turreted configuration as shown below.

 

FV4005 Stage 1. The 183 mm L4 cannon featured an autoloader.

 

However that wasn't satisfactory so the gun was than mounted in a huge thinly armored, boxy, fully traversable turret creating the FV4005 Stage 2. The turret could rotate 360 degrees but rotation was limited to 90 degrees only due to the tremendous weight of the gun tipping over the tank should it traverse its turret 180 degrees or more. The tests with the FV4005 Stage 2 failed possibly (this is a guess with no backing on my part) due to the zero battlefield survivability of this tank with its massive profile and terrible armour and simply just how unwieldy this thing was.

 

FV4005 Stage 2 

 

With the failure of the FV4005 Stage 2, the British army attempted to mount the 183 mm gun on the Conqueror chassis to create a self-propelled gun designated as the FV215b. The FV215b featured a Conqueror chassis with the 183 mm gun mounted in a fully traversable turret at the rear of the tank. In order for the chassis to accommodate the heavy gun properly, British engineers fitted the FV215b with a modified turret with much thinner armour in order to save weight.

 

Although the FV215b was. capable of full turret traverse it was specified to have a limited traverse. The reason being that the gun was so large and heavy that it would have tipped over the entire tank if the turret was turned 180 degrees to the left or right. Only a wooden mock up of the FV215b was ever built and after reviewing the mock-up the British cancelled the project and the idea never went into mass production. One the British personnel who inspected the wooden mock up said this and I quote:

 

"This [The Tank] is getting built over my dead body"

 

The reason the FV215b (183) was rejected was the sheer impracticality of the huge gun itself and the low rate of fire as well as how unwieldy and clumsy such a weapons system would be if it was used in actual combat. Sure the devastation it could cause was considerable, but as a practical weapon of war it was not suited to the speed and mobility  and quick rapid pace of battle demanded of armored vehicles on the modern battlefield. The British never got to use such a weapon as the Cold War eventually ended with the dissolution of the Soviet Union. No gun of such large caliber would ever be mounted on a tank again.

 

 Now that we have brushed up a bit on the history of this tank, Let's go over it's stats:

 

Vehicle is elite in stock configuration

 

Hitpoints: 1800

 

Speed Limit: 34 kilometres per hour

 

Hull Traverse Speed: 32 degrees per second

 

Turret Traverse Speed: 16 degrees per second

 

Hull armour:

 

Front: 152 mm

Sides: 50 mm

Rear: 76 mm

 

Turret armour:

 

Front: 254 mm

Sides: 101 mm

Rear: 76 mm

 

Top gun: 183 mm L4

 

Standard Shell Penetration:

 

AP: 310 mm

HE: 220 mm

HE: 94 mm

 

 Average Damage:

 

AP: 930

HE: 1300

HE: 1300

 

 Rounds per minute: 2.73

 

Accuracy: 0.4 at 100 m

 

Aim time: 3.4 seconds

 

Top Engine: Rolls-Royce Meteor Mk. 12

 

Horsepower: 800

 

Now that we have glanced over the general stats of this tank, Let us review its advantages and disadvantages on the battlefield in great detail:

 

Advantages: 

 

The gun: Without a doubt, the gun is the main feature of this tank. The 183 mm gun is the biggest mounted on a tank in World of Tanks that isn't a self-propelled artillery piece. No longer can the Jadgpanzer E100 hold onto it's status of having the biggest gun in-game; the FV215b (183) has taken that honor. While the Jadgpanzer E100 still has a very devastating gun in it's own right, the FV215b (183)'s gun can only be described as "apocalyptic". Therefore the first thing you'll notice is the monstrous alpha damage the FV215b (183) is capable of dishing out with each shot. The average damage values listed on this tank's gun is simply terrifying. With standard AP rounds if you penetrate, you can deal an average of 930 damage per shot with some shots dealing over 1000 damage if you roll high. That's about 3/4 of most tank's health at Tier 9 and even 10!

 

The penetration value of the gun's armor-piercing shell is a whopping 310 mm. This means that the FV215b (183) has the highest standard ammunition penetration of all the Tier 10 Tank Destroyers; at last, the Object 268 can take 2nd place in the penetration department. With such a high penetration, this tank will laugh at the armour of most tanks it faces. It's capable of slicing through the angled side of the heavily armored German Maus and can punch through the frontal turret and casemate armor of the E100 and Jadgpanzer E100. Only a hulldown T110E3 can be assured against the 183's firepower. Tanks careless enough to stand still, exposed will feel the wrath of the FV215b (183) as it "che chunks!" their hitpoints away.

 

HESH Ammunition: You may have noticed as you creep up to Tier 9 and 10 in the British Tech Tree that there is something strange about the British tank gun's HE ammunition. They all have high penetration values! The FV215b (183) rather than firing APCR or HEAT for it's premium ammunition, fires HESH instead.

 

The premium HESH  you get to load on the FV215b (183) has quite decent penetration of 220 mm while the regular HE ammunition has decent 92 mm of penetration. This allows you more applications for your HE ammunition unlike the tanks from other nations. Your HESH is able to penetrate many targets other tanks wish their HE ammunition could penetrate. And if you do you deal a higher amount of damage than with your standard ammunition and you have a higher chance of damaging crew and modules on your target devastating his tank. 

 

The amount of damage the FV215b 183 can dish out with HESH is what makes this tank feared on the battlefield. On PC the alpha damage the FV215b 183 dishes out with HESH is equivalent to that of an artillery shell. 1750 points. Here is Blitz, the average damage from a penetrating HESH round on the tank is 1300 which is simply monstrous. On a good day when RNG isn't trolling you with low damage rolls, you can deal up to 1400 to even 1500 damage. That's enough to seriously maim all Tier 10 tanks (especially the medium tanks), decimate all Tier 8-9 tanks and obliterate most Tier 8 tank destroyers you penetrate. Not only that, but you will be guaranteed to either damage 1-3 modules, or critically damage one module. The splash damage of the HESH rounds are also monstrous. Even if you fail to penetrate with your HESH shell and only splash the enemy, you can do from around, 300-600 splash damage which is still a sizable amount of damage and makes finishing off tanks on low health very easy.

 

This makes you an extremely lethal threat or a virtual death sentence against weakly armored tanks (Leopard 1's and FV4202's) and will make anyone who gives you their side or rear armour a reason to pay with more than they wish for. With your HESH ammunition, you can at times do more damage than any other tank at tier 10 with the single shot giving the FV215b (183) the highest potential alpha damage for a tank destroyer,

 

However, this ridiculous alpha damage comes with numerous complications. Since HESH is essentially just HE with a higher penetration, that means it is subject to the same disadvantages that HE ammunition has. Like, HE, HESH is not subject to normalization. Which means unlike AP shells, HESH does not "bite" into the armour upon impact. If the shell over matches the armour, it will penetrate. If it hits armour that has even a little higher effective thickness than it's penetration, than the shell will explode on the outside, doing only splash damage. Also if the HESH round hits an external module (ie. a track) or spaced armor. the shell will detonate prematurely and deal only splash damage. So be smart and aim well when you fire HESH. It could be a win-lose situation. 

 

TL;DR: The HESH Shells deals monstrous amounts of damage but is the ultimate Russian roulette round capable of either wrecking complete and utter devastation, or dealing only minor splash damage.

 

Mobility: The FV215b (183) is a very mobile TD. It's not as mobile as the agile and speedy Soviet Object 268, but since it's based on the Conqueror tank chassis, It's not mobile enough to race from flank to flank or get out of a sticky situation, but it's mobile enough to relocate and catch up with the team. This tank has a maximum speed of 34 km per hour but in reality you would mostly expect to get up to about 28 km per hour. You will only reach your top speed going down hill. Since this machine is fairly mobile, you can use it to either support the heavies, or provide a bigger punch to medium wolf-packs.

 

Very Good Track Traverse: The tank has 32 degrees of track traverse (like the Tier 10 British heavy tank, the FV215b) which coupled with the rotating pseudo-turret, makes this tank destroyer significantly more difficult to flank and circle than other Tier 10 tank destroyers. However don't let mediums circle you out in the open your restricted and slow turret rotation means that they can still get around you.

 

Turret: The FV215b (183) has a turret unlike it's predecessors. However, the turret can only rotate in a 90 degree arc or 45 degrees left or right. The turret also turns very slowly at only 16 degrees per second. However the inclusion of a turret makes this tank very flexible compared to fixed-casemate tank destroyers. With such a wide fire arc, you don't have to traverse your hull as often to aim at targets. It also makes shooting at enemies moving perpendicular to you much more easier. The turret is decently angled in the front and in some areas it is 254 mm thick. This gives the FV215b 183 the potential to bounce some shots aimed at the turret. However, the armour well decently angled, is still very flat, so you cannot tank like a heavy tank. Use that turret to aim your shot, than retreat when reloading. The turret also allows you to side-scrape effectively and fire at the enemy.

 

Side skirts: Like most higher tier British tanks, the FV215b 183's side armour is covered completely by tracks and side skirts. This gives the tank effectively 2 layers of spaced armour, allowing it to mitigate most of the damage from High explosive shells and completely neutralizing HEAT shells. People will regret firing HE ammo or HEAT into your side armour unless they aim really carefully.

 

 

Disadvantages:

 

Poorly Armored all around: Despite the FV215b (183) having the designation "FV215b" in it's name, do not be fooled into thinking that the FV215b (183) has the same excellent hull configuration you expected on the Tier 10 British heavy tank. The upper glacis plate of the FV215b (183) is 152 mm thick like that of the FV215b. However the armour configuration is very poor for a Tier 10 Tank Destroyer. The upper glacis is 152 mm thick, but angled at only a 50 degree angle. This gives it an effective armour thickness of only 214 mm with a maximum of 216 mm. This means your armour is only effective against Tier 8 heavy and medium tanks. Tier 9 and Tier 10 tanks will easily punch through your hull armour frontally including the E100 with it's Armour-Piercing shell.

 

 

The lower glacis is extremely weak being only 76 mm thick and sloped at an angle. That is where everyone will be aiming for if they encounter this tank frontally and not hull down. Tier 10 and even some Tier 8  guns will have no trouble penetrating your lower glacis so be sure to hide it when possible. 

 

The turret while having 254 mm of armour and being decently sloped in the front, has obvious easy to aim for weakspots which mitigates it's effectiveness. The range-finder and the cupola on the roof of this tank are very weakly armored and can be easily penetrated by any gun Tier 8 and above. So be wary and don't stay out too long or you will pay for it. The sides and rear of the turret are also very flat making them easy to penetrate.

 

Your side armour and rear hull armour is a dismal 50 and 76 mm respectively which is utter garbage. The sides and rear are also completely flat with no slope what so ever. Anyone getting the flank of your tank will most definitely go through with no trouble. Your weak side armour also prevents you from side scraping  effectively as the thin side armour can be easily over-matched by guns of it's own tier and above or below.

 

Basically you cannot rely on your armour at all.

 

Low Shell Capacity: The FV215b (183) carries only 12 shells. This means that you run the very high risk of running out of ammunition if you take to many risky shots. Be sure to aim carefully and make each shell count. The low ammunition capacity will also place a hard burden on you of how much AP and premium HESH rounds you should carry.

 

Horrendous Reload Speed: Due to the massive caliber of the FV215b (183)'s gun, after you fire a shot, you are confronted with a nightmarish reload that seems to take an eternity to finish. This is why you must make your shots count or else you will be a detriment to your team.The painful reload makes you very vulnerable to enemy retaliation after firing. You need to find a safe haven to reload in peace as your armour will not save you.

 

Long and slow aim time: The aim time on this tank is a dismal 3.4 seconds which is the longest of all the Tier 10 tanks. This means that if you want your shot to have any hope of hitting the target and penetrating, you will have to find a place where you can stay until you aim completely before firing your shot. This can leave you vulnerable in a risky situation where you have enemies bearing down on you. It will also force you into making difficult decisions as well. Do you risk firing a shot that isn't fully aimed at the enemy? Or do you wait for the gun to fully aim giving the enemy the chance to slip away. Those are actual scenarios you will have to face.

 

Atrocious Accuracy (Alliteration Attempt Achieved): The FV215b (183) has the poorest accuracy of all the Tier 10 tanks rivaling the E100, Jadgpanzer E100, and IS-7 in terms of dispersion with the dispersion of the 183 mm gun being 0.4 at 100 meters. It's not all that uncommon for shots to completely veer off in the opposite of your intended direction, only critically damaging the tracks of enemy tanks, or simply failing to penetrate all together. Due to the gun's high dispersion, sniping at long range is not advised especially with HESH ammunition as even when fully aimed, there's always the random number generator working against you that can screw up your chances of high damage. The aim circle also tends to bloom extremely large from any source of movement, forcing you to aim and aim time and time again especially against moving targets, therefore bloom control is crucial to success.

 

People talk about how the BL-10 gun on the ISU-152 is temperamental, well if the BL-10 can be called that, I would say that the 183 mm L4 is an anxious, rebellious, overreacting teenager who you sometimes just want to send to their room without supper.

 

No Gun Depression: Your gun depression is only -5 degrees which means in when you are cresting a hill or ridge-line or just trying to fire down at an opponent, you will be frustrated due to the limitations of the Fv215b (183)'s gun depression. This means the Fv215b (183) will find it more difficult to bring its gun to bear on a target on ridge-lines and even gentle slopes without exposing its vulnerable hull to the enemy to blast away at.

 

Zero Resistance to High-Explosive Splash Damage: The FV215b (183) also has almost no resistance to the splash damage from HE ammunition unlike other tanks and so can easily be brought down by guns which exclusively fire HE ammunition or deal considerable splash damage upon impact.

 

Tendency to Catch fire: Due to the rear placement of the turret, the tank has the engine and fuel tanks mounted in the front of the hull. That means any frontal penetrations or penetrations to the front side armour of your tank will easily rupture your fuel tanks or damage your engine. The FV215b 183 is notorious for having a nasty tendency to burst into flames after being hit only a few time in the front. Not only will the FV215b 183 go up like a Roman Candle, it will also burn for a long period of time compared to other tanks. You now rather than having to worry about potential ammo detonation, now have to contend with being burned to death.  

 

Rear-mounted turret: Your rear mounted turret gives you the disadvantage of (if you are an amateur) exposing most of your hull before being able to bring your gun to bear on a potential target. This can allow the enemy to track you out in the open leaving you unable to return fire and being continuously damaged and tracked by the enemy. Keep that in mind when you are rounding corners as if you are not careful you will give the enemy the first shot when they ambush you behind a corner.

 

Sluggish Acceleration: The FV215b 183 while being agile compared most of the other Tier 10 tank destroyers is very sluggish compared to other Tier 10 tanks. The tank takes a considerable amount of time to reach speeds of 28 km per hour due to an under-powered 800 horsepower engine which has to propel a extremely heavy gun into battle. This also gives the FV215b 183 rather poor terrain resistance. It will struggle up hills and lose considerable speed even when going over gentle slopes.

 

 Now that we know what's good and bad about this tank, Let's move on shall we to performance and how to effectively operate this tank in battle.

 

Summary:

 

The FV215b 183 follows the British tech tree tradition of completely changing their tank's play style at top tier. It's not surprising considering the other British tank lines top tier tanks. The British mediums starts with weakly armored flankers before transitioning to hulldown snipers. But the Tier 10 FV4202 has has poor turret armour forcing you to change tactics. The British heavy tanks start with slow and ponderous infantry tanks before transitioning to weakly armored support heavies but the Tier 10 FV215b is a well armored tank with a strong turret. The British TD line is no different, starting out with weakly armored tank destroyers before evolving into heavily armored and slow assault guns with low damage guns with rapid reload and excellent accuracy but the FV215b (183) at Tier 10 is a poorly-armored, agile, terribly slow-firing and inaccurate tank destroyer with the potential to cause massive damage. This forces those who played and enjoyed the Tortoise with it's high rate of fire and laser-like accuracy to relearn how to play the 183.

 

The FV215b 183's purpose on the battlefield is very simple: To deal monstrous amounts of damage with each shell. It's primary role on the battlefield is to take up positions under the protection of its team mates and serve as (for lack of a better word) a "nuclear deterrent" against enemies hoping to push or flank. The tank's well-known reputation can be enough to invoke fear and worry in the hearts of its enemies (since there is always the chance that they will get hit after all) makes this tank a very powerful defensive unit. However this tank after firing becomes very vulnerable to counter attacks against it, since until it reloads, it's virtually helpless due to the lack of adequate armour and average mobility. Therefore a FV215b (183) is very much like the Leopard 1, dependent on its team's survival to perform effectively. On it's own this tank cannot carry the game. 

 

What makes the FV215b (183) so special on the battlefield?, its single-shot damage. With your premium HESH rounds, you can decimate any tank who has the misfortune of being hit and penetrated by you. However this insane alpha damage comes with complications and numerous disadvantages and relies for the majority of your battles in this tank on the variable tankers both love and hate with a passion: The random number generator. Due to the gun's low accuracy, long aim time, high dispersion and long reload, you will find your performance at times to be severely hindered and yourself praying for a miracle in order to hit. Your HESH rounds can be temperamental as well due to the gun's moody nature.In one game you will be dealing full damage to several tanks. Than in another game, your HESH rounds will simply explode against the outside of the tank, causing only splash damage or explode on external modules over and over again. Every shot you make will be a gamble and there's nothing really you can do about that. You will have to live with it.

 

Overall, the top tier British Tank Destroyer presents severe challenges for both you as the tank's owner, and the enemy team. Contrary to popular belief, the FV215b 183 is not an omnipotent divine entity which magically smites enemies with each shot it fires. It is instead a vulnerable weak tank with a very deadly but clumsy weapon. It is essentially a very accurate direct fire artillery piece with an excellent HESH shell which when in the right place at the right time, can turn a hopeless battle into victory. You have a lethal 183 mm gun which enemies are all to aware of and respect (or should respect) but fear when on the receiving end. For you, you will have to exploit the fear of your vehicle and ensure that you survive each reload and aim time to put in one apocalyptic shell after another. 

The FV215b 183 rewards those who wait patiently and play cautiously and ruthlessly punishes both its owner and the enemy for any mistake they make.

 

Now without further ado, Here's some strategies and tactics you can use.

 

Hanging back: You are not meant to be a front-line tank destroyer like the Jadgpanzer E100 or T110E3. Do not play this tank in the front-line! Enemy players are well aware of the terrifying alpha damage you can potentially inflict and how weak your armour is. If you rush out early in the game, expect to be met with a fusillade of fire and your tank to be reduced to a smoking wreck. I will repeat for those who play this tank, YOU ARE NOT A FRONT-LINE TANK YOU ARE A DEDICATED SUPPORT TANK DESTROYER.

 

However with the way matchmaking works these days, you will on occasion be the top tier tank. However that does not mean you have to charge into the fray. You will not last very long if you try to do that. Neither will cowering and sniping from range help much either. It's best you accompany your team and let some of your other tanks detect and report enemy tank positions for you. You can than unload on these targets while they are preoccupied with other matters. Staying with your team is in most cases your best chance of survival and you need to survive in order to help your team. Use your allies as meat shields as you cannot afford to take many hits. Always have back-up whenever possible cause there's always a chance you won't kill the enemy with your shot, and if you don't things are very grim.

 

Peek a BOOM! You can play peek a boo with other tanks by popping out and taking a shot. before retreating quickly. This works much better when you have a much more armored ally to help deflect enemy fire for you. Wait for the enemy to fire their shots than rush out and fire before quickly scuttling back into cover. With the somewhat decent hull armour when angled, this tank can afford to play peek a boo.You can peek out take your shot and hopefully get back into cover before the enemy have time to react or aim. However while you can pull it off, it is a risky tactic as you could be tracked out in the open and pinned down. This tactic works better when side-scraping.

 

Side-Scraping: Thanks to your relatively rear-mounted turret you can side scrape in this tank. Although this is no guarantee of bouncing shots due to your very thin side armor, it's better than coming around a corner and getting shot and tracked out in the open without being able to fire.  However you have to be careful as in tier 10 and even tier 8 where you go up against tanks with high penetration guns, they will over match your armour easily. How you side scrape is you jam your frontal hull against a wall or any other obstacle than you reverse back out showing your side at an extreme angle while bringing your gun to bear on your target. Wait for the enemies to fire than reverse out of cover and return fire. Be sure to allow time to aim.

 

Hull-Down:  You have a trollish turret with 254 mm of armour in some areas. This means you have the potential to bounce some shots from the enemy off your turret. Only a well aimed shell can possibly penetrate your turret so wiggle it between shots and move back and forth to make aiming difficult for your enemies. Use undulations in the terrain, Hills, rubble, and even dead tank hulks to hide your hull and show only that turret when you are ready to fire. While reloading retreat out of the line of fire. Your turret has glaring weakspots which makes long term hull-down not practical and dangerous.

 

Pre-aim your shots: One way you can try to mitigate standing exposed to enemy fire while aiming for 3.4 seconds, is to pre-aim your shots. In order to do this effectively, you need to think ahead about where enemy tanks will be coming from. Aim in those locations and let your aim circle settle. You have now pre-aimed and ready to fire at your enemies.

 

Retreat to Reload: After you fire, it is crucial you find cover ASAP as you can be sure there will be players who know that you have just fired and are powerless to retaliate. Therefore, ensure you have a safe haven which you can fall back to after you fire each shot. Surviving the reload is one of the most crucial things you must do in this tank. Always have a back up plan to insure that you take as less heat and shells from the enemy as possible before they feel the might of your gun.

 

Plan your targets: Consider which targets to hit and which shells to use. This may sound simple, but it is challenging. Remember your gun is capable of dealing monstrous amounts of damage with a single well-aimed shot. So pick your targets wisely. Try to go after tanks with most of their health intact in order to deal maximum damage against them. Don't go chasing after weak low heath targets unless they pose a grave threat to your team and no one else can deal with them, it's a waste of your 12 precious shells and your reload time. Let your team finish those tanks off if possible. You should conserve your shots for enemies with 1000 or more health. Also when firing, consider when type of ammunition to use. If it's a Maus, E100, or other heavily armored tanks, it will be very difficult to punch through with your HESH rounds. Use AP shells against them. However, if it's a medium tank or any other tank with weak armour and weakspots you can easily hit, than fire HESH and watch them be decimated.

  

AWACS Equipment: 

 

Large Caliber Gun Rammer: A must have for all tanks and more so on the FV215b (183). The rammer will really help speed up that long reload time.

 

Enhanced Gun-Laying Drive: Another must-have for this tank in order to give a considerable boost to that horrid 3.4 second aim time.

 

Improved Ventilation: Another very good equipment to have on your FV215b (183). Give a boost to your crew skills and can help a bit with your aim time, reload speed, and view range.

 

For further information, I strongly recommend you watch this Youtube video released from one of Wargaming's various Youtube channels regarding the FV4005 and the FV215b 183. It offers good general info in a more concise wording regarding these 2 tanks for those who are unfamiliar with the British top tier tank destroyers. You can ignore the tactics for the FV4005 as that won't be added to Blitz. Some of the facts only apply to the PC version of the FV215b 183, but the general information applies for both Blitz and PC in my opinion.

 

 

 

I hope you guys found this guide helpful, and hopefully allowed those of you who struggled with this tank to now find it somewhat bearable at the very least. If you feel that there were any parts to this guide which were inadequately explained, or there were some areas I left out. Please let me know and I will try my best to rectify. 

 

Thanks for reading AWACS Tank Guides and I will see you on the battlefield.

 

 

 

IF YOU LIKED THIS TANK GUIDE PLEASE LEAVE AN UPVOTE! IT REALLY HELPS THE WRITER

 

THANKS!


Edited by EdAWACSdenyY, 17 September 2015 - 11:09 PM.

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_Artoria #2 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:02 AM

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Oh jeez, imagine a 183mm auto loader... Great guide tho.

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EdAWACSdenyY #3 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:06 AM

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View PostMorganFreemanKILLEDU, on 14 September 2015 - 05:02 PM, said:

Oh jeez, imagine a 183mm auto loader... Great guide tho.

 

It wasn't an autoloader as in the French tanks. It was more like a mechanized loading system which probably lifted the shell onto the loading tray of the gun and than for the crew to ram into the breech. A gun of such caliber with a mechanized loader like on the AMX 13 would suffer numerous mechanical failures.

 

Also I think on PC there's something close to that. The Waffentrauger auf. E100 can use an auto-loading 150 mm gun.


Edited by EdAWACSdenyY, 15 September 2015 - 12:08 AM.

Proud owner of Her Majesty's MBT the Centurion Mk 7/1

Armed with the Royal Ordnance 105 mm L7A1 Gun

 


LtPork #4 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:08 AM

    Why can't I shoot green tanks?

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A lengthy but extremely informative. If I ever get to the FV215b 183, I'll refer back to this guide :)

(FYI in the Star Wars clip, I figured out what happened to Jar Jar Binks 1:17)


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Minecraftexpert_25 #5 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:10 AM

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My real question is this...is it worth it? IMO the tortoise seems better than the 183 by a long shot.

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Herodotus4 #6 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:16 AM

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I am pretty sure that the jagdpanzer E-100 has some of the better tier 10 accuracy at 0.36

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OronSonon #7 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:22 AM

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I think in one of the sections (under tactics for driving the tank, the peek a boo section) u said the 183 has excellent aim and accuracy. U should probably fix that. 

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EdAWACSdenyY #8 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:24 AM

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View PostOronSonon, on 14 September 2015 - 05:22 PM, said:

I think in one of the sections (under tactics for driving the tank, the peek a boo section) u said the 183 has excellent aim and accuracy. U should probably fix that. 

 

Thanks for pointing that out, fixed it!

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EdAWACSdenyY #9 Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:41 AM

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View PostMinecraftexpert_25, on 14 September 2015 - 05:10 PM, said:

My real question is this...is it worth it? IMO the tortoise seems better than the 183 by a long shot.

 

It's a fun tank to drive. But it's also a very difficult and frustrating tank to drive. On a good day when RNG is in your favor, you will be dealing 1000 plus damage to the enemy again and and again. Than in other games you will be missing point-blank shots as if you were a noob and bouncing off Leopard 1's with AP. In this way it's the closest tank we have to a direct-fire artillery.

 

You will love this tank when you manage to deal that 1300 damage to a enemy tank who let you aim at him with HESH. but you will hate the long aimtime, lack of armor, and poor accuracy of the gun as well as the excruciating reload speed.


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Putins_Chariot #10 Posted 15 September 2015 - 01:02 AM

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Wow, another sweet guide! Nice one AWACS

_G_E_M_ #11 Posted 15 September 2015 - 01:25 AM

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i have yet to get to tier 6 in the British tech tree line and you already have a guide out FML

 


AntonioSoares #12 Posted 15 September 2015 - 01:34 AM

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HE has 92mm of penetration, not 94. Excellent guide tho! Keep it up!

Goat_Rodeo #13 Posted 15 September 2015 - 02:23 AM

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Awesome informative guide, have saved it for later as I'm about halfway in XP to the Tortise. Have played a few games where the FV ran way to close to the front lines and attracted EVERYONES attention. Had to dive my JpE100 infront of one after they "unloaded" and the Reds reaction was comical. I saw all the heavys holding fire on me and 3 barrels wagging back and forth trying to take a clear shot! Also of note I've seen a couple of platoons of these where they would alternate fire as best they could cutting down on the rate of fire issue. I kept thinking that if I were on the receiving end of these two I'd be second guessing my ability to count out 8 seconds or so....anyways, thanks for the effort! +1

 

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Alakazamfan1 #14 Posted 15 September 2015 - 02:29 AM

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Nice guide Edawacs although there are a few things wrong. The Jageru has 0.35 accuracy and the Death Star has 5° of gun depression instead of 6°

 


___DEAN #15 Posted 15 September 2015 - 02:50 AM

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A very detailed guide, upvote deserved! Keep 'em coming!

 

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EdAWACSdenyY #16 Posted 15 September 2015 - 03:18 AM

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View PostAlakazamfan1, on 14 September 2015 - 07:29 PM, said:

Nice guide Edawacs although there are a few things wrong. The Jageru has 0.35 accuracy and the Death Star has 5° of gun depression instead of 6°

 

Fixed the gun depression portion. For the accuracy portion, I meant the Death Star has a 0.4 accuracy. I've modified that sentence to make it more clear.

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tcamp48 #17 Posted 15 September 2015 - 05:15 PM

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Great info, thanks so much!

 

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reluctanttheist #18 Posted 15 September 2015 - 06:22 PM

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Ed, +1 for the alliteration and other literary devices employed.  Nice to see someone keeping the Queen's English alive!

 

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XXX_Corps #19 Posted 15 September 2015 - 10:57 PM

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View PostMinecraftexpert_25, on 15 September 2015 - 12:10 AM, said:

My real question is this...is it worth it? IMO the tortoise seems better than the 183 by a long shot.

Blasted the tortoise with HESH in the side.-1458 hp later the tortoise soiled his shell.I have yet to be hit with the 183mm HESH round, but I have hit a few with it and it is something to see that much damage from one shot.


Edited by XXX_Corps, 15 September 2015 - 11:03 PM.


EdAWACSdenyY #20 Posted 16 September 2015 - 12:10 AM

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View PostXXX_Corps, on 15 September 2015 - 03:57 PM, said:

Blasted the tortoise with HESH in the side.-1458 hp later the tortoise soiled his shell.I have yet to be hit with the 183mm HESH round, but I have hit a few with it and it is something to see that much damage from one shot.

 

on PC the 183 is even more fun, as you can deal 2000 points of damage with HESH and it has 230 mm of penetration.

 

I had the worst luck in the 183. I bounced a HESH round off the front of a Leopard 1.

 

I cried.


Edited by EdAWACSdenyY, 16 September 2015 - 12:11 AM.

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